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Turkish Ayin-i Djém, performing at Bab Makina
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June 2007
Flanked by the five musicians of the
Dastan Ensemble, on an elevated stage covered with red Moroccan rugs,
the Iranian singer Parissa sat, eyes closed. As the late afternoon sun
dazzled her green bejeweled caftan and the enormous oak tree that served
as a leafy backdrop, Parissa sang love poems in what sounded like equal
parts lamentation and controlled euphoria. In the crowded audience that
spilled out over the Batha Museum’s courtyard here were Queen
Rania of Jordan and U2’s Bono and The Edge, who happened to have
been recording there in early June during the festival. Parissa’s
voice cyclically climbed and descended multiple notes in one breath
with such jarring beauty and intensity that many were moved to tears.
Parissa’s performance was just
one of 40-plus that graced the 2007 Fez Festival of World Sacred Music.
For 13 years running, the festival has showcased traditional as well
as broadly interpreted sacred music. This year featured Pakistani Qawwali,
Gregorian chants from Lisbon, the London Community Gospel Choir, Pergolesi’s
cantatas sung by Barbara Hendricks and Turkish whirling dervishes. The
poetry of Rumi, the Sufi mystic, was pervasive in most of the classical
performances, as this year marks the 800th anniversary of his birth.
There was also the afro-pop of Angélique Kidjo, and a handful
of outstanding Moroccan rock, hip-hop, funk, pop, fusion groups with
messages of peace, tolerance and social justice. The ten day festival
also hosted heady morning discussions with topics such as Cultural Identity
vs. Globalization, and Faith and Reason in the Modern World. Every night
was capped by a free 11 p.m. Sufi performance by a different Moroccan
brotherhood in the garden of Dar Tazi, a beautiful old palace.
“We have a target,” said festival founder and president
Mohamed Kabbaj, “to get people to know each other.” Sitting
on a cushion before the South African Johnny Clegg performed, Mr. Kabbaj
noted that ignorance plagues all striations of society. When asked about
Morocco and the threat of Islamic extremism, he answered: “The
origin of extremism is ignorance. Ignorance creates fear.” Mr.
Kabbaj is aware that his festival can’t stop extremism, “but
it’s a way, a means, and today we have to use all means.”
So far his festival has spawned 27 other scared music festivals world-wide.
All Fez festival venues, some free, others ticketed, were situated around
the incredible medieval Medina, a chaotic labyrinth of “streets”
and alleys, so narrow they can only be used by donkeys and throngs of
pedestrians, most wearing traditional Moroccan clothes.
One of the most visually mesmerizing performances of the festival was
by the whirling dervishes, Ayin-i Djém, from Turkey who traditionally
only whirl in private. They preformed at Bab Makina, an enormous, majestic,
walled-in city gate, transformed into the poshest venue of the festival,
with seating under an open sky, a VIP area, and food for sale, attracting
the wealthier La Ville Moderne people of Fez. In marked contrast to
the Medina, women wore stilettos and plunging necklines, and many a
Chanel purse was tossed on the security X-ray machine upon entry. Only
a handful of women wore headscarves.
While the foreign festival-going contingent, primarily from North America
and Europe, many of whom sported beads, graying hair and newly purchased
flowing Moroccan outfits, sat enraptured by the whirling dervishes,
some locals in the audience saw it simply as a social event, waved to
friends and chatted, both in person and on cell phones.
Another outstanding performance at Bab Makina two nights later was the
Tunisian Sonia M’barek, part of a triple bill of female singers
of Arab-Andalous songs. M’barek’s sublime voice mixed seamlessly
with the strings that repeatedly crescendoed and relented and expressed
impassioned yearning for forgiveness, mercy and devotion to the Prophet.
She perfectly demonstrated melisma, the singing of multiple notes in
one breath. Prevalent in most North African sacred music, melisma can
be heard in neighboring Spain’s flamenco.
The city gates of Bab Boujloud held free concerts—repeats of ticketed
headliners, as well as many outstanding Moroccan rock groups. Just as
Rumi flowed through many of the classical performances, Gnawa, a form
of rhythmic Moroccan music brought from sub-Saharan Africa via slaves
thousands of years ago, was incorporated into the repertoire of most
of the rock groups. Among the instruments heard were the hejhouj, or
Gnawan guitar, and qarqabas, handheld Gnawan metal instruments that
are clanked together like large castanets and evolved from broken shackles.
One of the best performances at Bab Boujloud was the Gnawa-infused pop
of Majda Yahyaoui, who sang with such power and benevolence that the
kids in the audience, including girls, tried to climb the metal crowd-control
gates to get closer.
“I love our heritage and I want to sing everything Moroccan,”
said a smiling Yahyaoui as she donned a white and gold robe backstage
after her performance. “I am the first white woman to sing Gnawan
music,” she added proudly. Yahyaoui is known for singing Malhoun,
another traditionally male genre, and was quick to stress that women
used to be forbidden to sing in public (still the law in some Muslim
countries). “So there’s been progress!”
The Sufi Nights series surprisingly had the most maniacally delirious,
memorable and hypnotizing, performance of the festival, the Ouled Kamar
Gnaoua Ensemble. The eight-man ensemble, dressed in brightly colored
silken robes embroidered with seashells, took turns singing and dancing
across the stage, at first acrobatically, and once with bound feet.
They called out to various saints, clapped, sprinkled oils, playing
the hejhouj and tinny qarqabas. A steady, reciprocal delirium grew over
the course of three hours between the ensemble and the audience, making
several teenage girls in the tightly packed garden dramatically flail
their hair around, one of whom had to be calmed down by her mother.
Most foreigners had made discreet exits by this point, although a few
remained, one of them being the Boston-based composer Osvaldo Golijov,
who was “mind-boggled” by what was unfolding. Three men
in steady progression fell into trances, each crawling on stage on his
hands and knees. One man, seemingly in a state of hypnosis danced around,
his eyes little slits, while the other two convulsed and had to eventually
be carried off the stage by security.
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